Bespoke safaris beyond your imagination. Visit gorillas where they live, on foot in the wild. Trek the afro-montane forests of the Albertine Rift Valley. Bushwhack remote eco-systems in the Congo Basin. Boat up river through the jungles of Gabon. Hunt with the Ba'aka pygmies in Dzanga Shanga. Join our next expedition to Gorillaland, where it all began and still goes on.
Monday, November 20, 2023
Monday, September 26, 2022
Thirty Years of Gorilla Tracking by Greg Cummings
In my memoir, Gorilla Tactics: How To Save A Species (soon to be published in the United States by Chicago Review Press), I describe in detail the dramatic moment in October 1992 when I first came face to face with my hairy mountain cousins. Here's a short excerpt from my, as yet, unpublished manuscript:
The wind blasts a hole through the mist and for a moment we can see Lake Kivu and the town of Gisenyi a few thousand metres below us. We then find Group 5’s night nests. A forward tracker assures us over walkie talkies that the gorillas are not far. We descend into a saddle and are surrounded by giant lobelia plants. There is an unusual odour in the air, like a workman’s armpit after a hard day’s toil. Bob tells me it is a fear odour that gorillas give off when they sense danger. I imagine they can smell us too. They probably know I drank a barrel of banana beer last night. A gorilla is sheltering from the rain beneath a hagania tree. But for a faint reflection in his dark eyes when he briefly glances at us, his form is barely discernible in the faint light. He sits perfectly still. He will not move until the rain stops, or I cross a line. Bob makes a well-rehearsed guttural sound with his throat, known as a belch-vocalization, which in gorilla language means, “Everything’s cool.” More gorillas appear. I am relieved that we have found them. Rainfall facilitates our entry into their world. Around us the foliage glistens. Despite the high average rainfall in their habitat, by all appearances gorillas do not much like the rain. They remain stock still, shabby black forms huddled together, hardly even looking up.
Friday, February 22, 2019
Friday, July 27, 2018
Thursday, November 3, 2016
Great Apes and the Coast
Two Weeks in Uganda & Kenya, featuring the Albertine Rift Valley, Kenya Coast, Tsavo, and Amboseli national parks - featuring gorilla and chimpanzee trekking, ocean activities, and game drives - staying in luxury accommodation and traveling by safari vehicle and aircraft
Day 1: Arrive Entebbe International Airport (EBB). Transfer (30 min) by boat to Bulago Island, one degree south of the Equator. Bulago is the hub of a sustainable marine and endangered animal reserve. Relax on the shores of Lake Victoria, the world’s largest tropical lake. Overnight at the One Minute South villa.
Day 2: Transfer (30 min) by boat to Entebbe, then (4 ½ hrs) by road to Kibale Forest National Park, the most accessible of Uganda's major rain forests and home to a remarkable thirteen primate species, including habituated chimpanzees, our closest relative in the wild. Overnight at the Primate Lodge.
Day 3: Morning chimpanzee trekking. Kibale’s 1,450 chimpanzee represent Uganda’s largest population of this endangered primate. Other primates include l’Hoest’s monkey, red colobus monkey, black and white colobus, blue monkey, grey cheeked mangabey, red tailed monkey, olive baboon, bush baby and potto. Transfer (½ hr) by road to Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary and see how local communities are working together to maintain this stunning wildlife reserve. Night walk to look for nocturnal primates. Overnight at the Primate Lodge.
Day 4: Transfer (4 hrs) by road to Ishasha for an afternoon game drive to spot tree-climbing lions, elephant, hippos and a vast array of antelope, some only found in this remote corner of the Albertine Rift. Transfer (2 ½ hrs) by road to Bwindi Forest. Overnight at Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp.
Day 5: Gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, on the steep, rain-soaked slopes of the Bufumbira Mountains. A modicum of fitness is required to trek Mountain gorillas. Bwindi comprises 331 square kilometers of jungle forests and contains both montane and lowland forest, and is accessible only on foot. The park provides habitat for some 120 species of mammals, 346 species of birds, 202 species of butterflies, 163 species of trees, 100 species of ferns, 27 species of frogs, chameleons, geckos and many endangered species.
The fur of the Mountain gorilla, often thicker and longer than that of other gorilla species, enables them to live in colder temperatures. Gorillas can be identified by nose prints unique to each individual. Males usually weigh twice as much as the females, and this subspecies is on average the largest of all gorillas. Adult males have more pronounced bony crests on the top and back of their skulls, giving their heads a more conical shape. These crests anchor the powerful masseter muscles, which attach to the lower jaw (mandible). Adult females also have these crests, but they are less pronounced. Like all gorillas they feature dark brown eyes framed by a black ring around the iris.
Afternoon walk to the Pygmy community for a rich cultural exchange with Africa’s original inhabitants. Overnight at Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp.
Day 6: Transfer (1 ½ hrs) by air to Entebbe. A leisurely lunch at The Gateley Inn. Transfer (2 hrs) by air to Nairobi, then (1 hr) by air to Malindi. Overnight at Backpackers Club Malindi.
Day 7-8: Wind down beside an olympic sized pool at our elegant ocean-front villa, set on two shady acres of palm and frangipani groves (with a resident troop of Sykes monkeys), and surrounded by silver sand beaches. Overnight at Backpackers Club Malindi.
Malindi add-ons:
- Day trip to the Lost City of Gede and Watamu - lunch, Italian cuisine at Papa Remo Beach.
- Day trip to Che Shale, pristine beach north of Malindi - lunch, soft-shell crab at Che Shale, best in East Africa.
- Half day, dhow cruise aboard Big Mama, from Driftwood to the Mayungu sandbar for sundowners.
- Half day to Sikoki Forest to spot butterflies.
Day 9: Transfer (2 hrs) by road to Tsavo East National Park, one of the oldest and largest parks in Kenya. Most of the park consists of semi-arid grasslands and savanna. It is considered one of the world's biodiversity strongholds, and its popularity is mostly due to the vast amounts of diverse wildlife that can be seen, including the famous 'big five' consisting of Masai lion, black rhino, cape buffalo, elephant and leopard. Overnight at Satao Luxury Tented Camp.
Day 10: Game drive through Tsavo East. Tsavo lions, a population where adult males often lack manes entirely, total about 675 lions in the Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem. Overnight at Satao Luxury Tented Camp.
Day 11: Transfer (3 hrs) by road to Lumo Community Wildlife Santuary. The greater Tsavo Conservation Area is a vast, wild region of awe-inspiring natural beauty and incredible biodiversity. The area boasts Kenya’s single largest population of elephants – famously red in colour due to Tsavo’s rusty earth tones – numbering 11,000 animals at the last census (February 2014). This might sound like a good many elephants – but not when you consider that in the late 1960s there used to be 35,000 in Tsavo, and that the numbers have dropped by 1,500 since the last count three years ago. Among the surviving population is arguably the world’s last viable gene pool of elephants carrying exceptionally large ivory. Overnight at Lion's Bluff Lodge.
Day 12: Transfer (2 hrs) by road to Lake Jipe, at the foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Overnight at Grogan's Castle.
Day 13: Transfer (5 hrs) by road to the Sheldrick Trust Orphan’s Project, which has achieved world-wide acclaim through its hugely successful elephant and rhino rescue and rehabilitation program. The Orphans’ Project exists to offer hope for the future of Kenya’s threatened elephant and rhino populations as they struggle against the threat of poaching for their ivory and horn, and the loss of habitat due to human population pressures and conflict, deforestation and drought.. Overnight at Ithumba Camp.
Day 14: Transfer (1 hr) by air to Wilson Airport, Nairobi. Transfer (45 min) by road to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO) for your intercontinental flight.
Friday, September 18, 2015
Original Safari
Then, 60,000 years ago, stressed by climate change, our human ancestors migrated out of Africa, leaving a handful of fellow humans behind. And for countless generations this wild wonderland remained in equilibrium with its inhabitants.
That is, unless East Africa’s wildlife authorities can earn enough money from their protected areas to maintain them.
Meeting that challenge, and living and working for most of my life in and around the Rift Valley, has afforded me an in-depth understanding of the future of Africa’s wildlife.
Sipping drinks by the campfire under a crystalline clear night sky, exchanging bush tales, reliving the origins of language and storytelling, it is easy to imagine your worries fading away to nothing. Hakuna matata!
Friday, June 19, 2015
Couples Mountain Gorilla Safari
Dinner under the light of lanterns at the romantic Jahaza Grill, located on a bluff, at the edge of a forest, overlooking the tranquil lakeshore and surrounded by primates and birds. Overnight at Lake Victoria Serena Resort.
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| © Michael Kobold |

The fur of the Mountain gorilla, often thicker and longer than that of other gorilla species, enables them to live in colder temperatures. Gorillas can be identified by nose prints unique to each individual. Males usually weigh twice as much as the females, and this subspecies is on average the largest of all gorillas. Adult males have more pronounced bony crests on the top and back of their skulls, giving their heads a more conical shape. These crests anchor the powerful masseter muscles, which attach to the lower jaw (mandible). Adult females also have these crests, but they are less pronounced. Like all gorillas they feature dark brown eyes framed by a black ring around the iris.
After your trek, surrounded by breathtaking views of the Virungas, while still wonderstruck from your wild encounter with the rare Mountain gorilla, you’ll enjoy a gourmet picnic at the park boundary. Overnight at Virunga Lodge.
Ideal for couples with a yearning to go somewhere wild together... This amazing deal includes private plane charter, vehicle and driver, two mountain gorilla treks, and two nights each at the best gorilla lodges: Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge and Virunga Safari Lodge. Don't miss your chance to meet mountain gorillas up close and personal.
Book now! Email gorillalandsafaris@gmail.com
Book now! Email gorillalandsafaris@gmail.com
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
Beyond The Well-Traveled Horizon
Looking for somewhere to truly relax? Nga'Moru Wilderness Camp next to Kidepo Valley National Park in northeast Uganda, with its great food, excellent service, elegant bandas - each with a breathtaking view of the Narus Valley - provides the perfect location to enjoy one of East Africa's best kept secrets. It deserves a few nights stay.
"This remote national park lies in the far northeast of Uganda, isolated from the rest of the country by the sparsely populated, arid badlands of Karamoja region. Seldom visited by tourists due to the expense and difficulty of getting there, Kidepo is nevertheless one of the most alluring destinations in the country, boasting a strong wilderness atmosphere, rugged mountain scenery and exceptional game viewing and birdwatching." - Bradt Guide to Uganda.
Departing from Kajjansi Airfield (near Entebbe), fly beyond the well-travelled horizon in the comfort of your own private aircraft. At Kidepo Valley Airfield you'll be met by an experienced guide and transferred to your lodgings. Relax at Nga'Moru Wilderness Camp. The breathtaking view will stay etched in your mind for many years to come.
Sightings from camp include hartebeest, waterbuck, zebra, giraffe, elephant, lion, and buffalo which regularly graze in the high rocky grounds of Nga'Moru, along with oribi, warthog, and a plethora of bird species - including nine raptors.
As Nga'Moru is situated next to the park boundary, daily game-viewing from camp is a leisurely affair. Take as many game drives as you wish in our classic game-viewing vehicle, guided by an experienced expert on the park. And Kidepo Valley has a number of species that are not found anywhere else in Uganda.
"Herds of elephants are common in the Narus Valley, as well as buffaloes, and smaller numbers of common elands, plains zebras, cheetahs and Rothschild's giraffes are easily seen in the shallow valley...Antelopes include Jackson's hartebeest, defassa waterbucks and bohor reedbucks; oribis and both Kirk's and Gunther's dik-diks shelter in dense thickets on stony ridges and olive baboons and patas and vervet monkeys forage over the savanna. Bright's gazelles have recently been seen near Moru Apol and rumours of black rhinos persist around Mt Zulia. The predator list includes Nile crocodiles in the Narus River; lions, leopards, spotted hyenas and bat-eared foxes; caracals stalk striped ground squirrels and ground birds; and hunting dogs have been reported near Mt Lomej." - Watching Wildlife East Africa.
And at the end of each day, there's a spot by the fire to unwind and share safari tales with the other guests at Nga'Moru. Sit back in your camp chair, look up, and gaze into a night sky like no other you've ever seen. Listen for grunting lions, yelping jackals and laughing hyena near camp.
Big sigh...yes, Nga’Moru certainly is off the beaten track, beyond the prevailing horizons, a restful, isolated wilderness teaming with wildlife, a place where you can truly relax.
Monday, November 11, 2013
WHO'S WATCHING OVER THEM?
Sunday, March 10, 2013
Rumble in the Jungle
The heavyweight championship of the world was set to begin at 4 am local time in Kinshasa so that it could be seen on closed-circuit television live in eastern United States at 10 pm. Consequently most of us had to wait until the next morning to learn the result.
The Rumble in the Jungle is considered one of the greatest sporting moments in history. But rather than test my sport-writing capabilities, here's a concise write up I found on the Boxing Memorabilia website:
Muhammad Ali was a major underdog, boxing’s faded prince at 32 years of age. Many boxing commentators felt that Ali had reached the end of the road. Between Ali and the title was a bigger, younger and stronger man, who had never lost and had knocked out 37 of his 40 opponents. His last eight fights had all ended inside six minutes. Foreman had destroyed Joe Frazier and Ken Norton, the two men who had beaten Muhammad Ali. He was surely unbeatable in the same way that Sonny Liston had been.
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